Knitting Tutorial – Lacy Summer Socks

This blog is for those already having knit a pair of socks by hand as well as people wanting to learn how.  For this particular pair of anklets you must have a good working knowledge of knitting terms/abbreviations.  The pattern is designed by Stefanie Goodwin-Ritter for Lorna’s Laces Hand-Dyed Yarns.

This tutorial includes pictures.  I find it helpful to have pictures to view when attempting a new technique.

Before I begin any knitting I create my chart(s) and any pattern notes that will aide in knitting the project .  You will find the photo of this below.

Notes and charts I created for ease of knitting the Lacy Summer Socks.
Notes and charts I created for ease of knitting the Lacy Summer Socks.

1) You will notice the different colored highlights on the pattern.  This helps me stay on point when there are multiple tasks to be executed in a single round.  2)The larger chart I made is for keeping track of what row and repeat I am on while knitting the lace portion.  3) The smaller of the charts I created for the cuff and heel flap preparation.

I used Karbonz by Knitters Pride Size 1 dpn’s (double pointed needles).  The yarn I used was Berroco Alpaca Sock Yarn which has a slight halo to it but not significant enough to disrupt the lace pattern.  Photo below shows the cuff completed and ready for knitting the heel flap and heel.  This is what yours should look like at this point in the project.

Ready for heel flap and heel to be completed
Ready for heel flap and heel to be knit.

The photo below is what your sock should look like after having completed the heel flap and heel.  I discovered an easier way to execute the short rows which shape the heel.  I look a few stitches ahead and when I’m getting near the “space” created by the previous short row  I count the stitches left to knit before the next K2tog or P2tog is to be knit.  

Heel flap and heel completed
Heel flap and heel completed
Heel finished
Heel finished

A closer view.  If your sock does not look like this please rip back and knit the heel flap and heel again.  If you still have a problem leave a comment (insert photo if you’re able) and I will do my best to assist you in getting it correct.

Now we’re onto the next portion of the sock which is the gusset.  This is the tricky part or can be.  I have found an easier way to execute this.  While I’m thinking of it also there is an error in the pattern I found.  You MUST knit an additional 6 rows after having completed the short row heel portion of the socks.  You will not have enough rows in which to pick up the required amount of stitches for the gussets if  you miss this.  You will knit 1 row, purl the next, knit another row, purl the next, knit the next row, and purl one last row.  After this you will have enough rows to pick up the required amount of stitches.  When picking up the stitches remember to skip the first stitch and pick up in the next stitch.  You will pick up a stitch in every stitch until you have the required amount of stitches picked up.  I apologize I am lacking a photo of the sock at this point.  The easiest way I have found to pick up stitches is as follows:  Use a 2nd needle to go through the stitch you are picking up the stitch in, use your working needle to wrap the yarn around and bring through the stitch.  I have plans of creating a video of this technique.

Now that your gussets have been created it’s time for the most fun and enjoyable portion of this pair of socks…the lace pattern!  I use a locking stitch marker as it will stay on and in the right position compared to a non-locking stitch marker.   Simply attach it to a live stitch in the center between Needles 1 and 3.  One thing to remember when knitting this section of the socks, NEEDLE 2 is the ONLY needle you are concerned with knitting the lace pattern.  Needles 1 and 3 are always straight knitting and decrease needles.  Decrease rounds are always straight knitting rounds and are always odd numbered (1, 3, 5, 7, 9, etc.)  The decreasing is executed until you have a total of 66 stitches remaining on your needles. This sock pattern uses 3 dpns for the live sts and needle #4 is your needle of execution.  On Needle #1 you will have 16 stitches, Needle #2 will have 33 stitches and Needle #3 will have 17 stitches on it when you are finished decreasing.  Y9u will continue knitting after the decreases have been made as the sock will not be long enough for an adult at that point.

Close view of the lace pattern.
Close view of the lace pattern.

This is what your sock should look like after having completed the lace portion.  Next is the toe decrease.  For size 9 shoe it is 3 pattern repeats.  I did not knit the additional 1-8 rounds as the pattern directs.  Upon blocking they were just fine, it’s entirely up to you if you want to do so.  If you need them larger simply repeat another pattern repeat before you begin the toe decrease.

Now that your sock is approx 2″ short of the length of your or your recipients foot it is time for the toe decrease.  One thing to keep in mind it is a total of 16 rounds before you cut the yarn, thread your tapestry needle and go through your remaining stitches.

On blocking form
On blocking form

I did not block it in this manner as I didn’t like the shape it was going to create in doing so.  Next picture shows properly blocking socks.

Blocking in process
Blocking in process

I soaked the socks in warm water with Eucalan for approx 45 minutes after which I rolled them in a terry towel squeezing out the excess water as I rolled.  I placed the roll on the floor and stepped quite firmly on it further squeezing more water out of the socks.  I gently unrolled the towel and placed each sock on a blocker for drying.  The total drying time was 3 days.  

If you have any questions regarding the construction, yarn used, needles, etc. please leave a comment and I will be happy to answer and help you.

Thank you for reading my first instructional blog.

Happy Knitting!

The Linnster 🙂

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